China Hunan is poised to become one of Ranelagh's most beloved dining destinations, and for good reason. This restaurant, just four weeks old at the time of my visit, is already making waves in the culinary scene. As the lunar calendar resets, marking the year of the fire horse, the timing is symbolic. China Hunan's opening coincides with this significant moment, adding a touch of serendipity to its allure. But what truly sets this place apart is its team's impressive pedigree. They are the same group behind the renowned China Song in Monkstown, the celebrated China Tang, the trendy Hakkahan in Stoneybatter, and the beloved Little Dumpling and Nan Chinese Restaurant on Stephen Street. With such a stellar track record, expectations are high, and China Hunan doesn't disappoint.
The restaurant's ambiance is a refreshing departure from its Monkstown counterpart. Gone are the rich reds; instead, a sophisticated palette of black, grey, white, and deep green dominates the space. Dark patterned tiles with circular and geometric motifs catch the light, creating an elegant atmosphere. A marble-topped counter and tables add a touch of luxury, while traditional landscape imagery on painted screens provides a subtle backdrop. The dining experience is further enhanced by the aroma of Chinese New Year tunes playing in the background.
The menu is a testament to the team's expertise, mirroring the structure and format of China Song. It offers a diverse range of Hunan, Sichuan, and Cantonese dishes, including an array of offal and the signature Peking duck, which was a standout during my visit. The classic Cantonese wonton soup, served in a pale celadon bowl, is a perfect introduction to the restaurant's culinary prowess. Five wontons, filled with pork and prawn, are nestled beneath a clear, lightly clouded broth, creating a delightful contrast of textures and flavors.
The crispy squid, typhoon shelter style, is another standout dish. It arrives pale gold and lightly dusted, with a fine, sandy crumb. The garlic and dried chili are subtle, allowing the squid's natural fragrance to shine. The crust provides a satisfying crack, yielding instantly to reveal tender, sweet flesh. This dish is a testament to the chef's skill, offering a delightful sensory experience.
The Peking duck is a true masterpiece, carefully air-dried for two days and then cooked in a bullet oven. It is carved tableside, showcasing its bronzed, gleaming skin. The duck is served with a side of sugar, allowing diners to enjoy the skin alone before slicing into the breast and leg meat. The bird is full of flavor, with a remarkable amount of meat, and the wok-fried edges add a delightful crispness and caramelization.
The meal concludes with a delightful Cantonese charcoal lava bun, which is also featured on the daytime dim sum menu. Paired with coconut sorbet, it provides a perfect end to the culinary journey. China Hunan matches its sibling restaurants in terms of quality and presentation, and the Peking duck is a standout dish that will leave a lasting impression.
While the restaurant is smaller than its counterparts, it is fully accessible, with an accessible toilet in the nearby hot pot restaurant. The dinner for two, including a bottle of wine, came to €150.50, offering excellent value for money. The verdict is clear: China Hunan is a brilliant addition to Ranelagh's culinary landscape, and it is easy to envision it becoming one of the area's most popular restaurants.
